Networking
Clothes Make The Leader
Helping you keep your footing on the cliff and your
focus on the summit.
By Parrish Hirasaki
Now, before you skip this because the subject is so superficial, think
about the role of clothing in society. We go between many mini-cultures
in our lives. In each of these cultures there are accepted costumes.
These costumes say you belong and what your role is.
You are a member of the congregation at church, not the minister. You
are a shopper rather than an employee at the grocery store. You are
the father in the home, not a child or the mother. Our wardrobes reflect
all these different roles. Dressing for work can really be a pain. I
ask you to remember that I am just a messenger. I don't necessarily
like to follow the rules either. But, like many things that I advise
you to do and not to do, all of this affects how other people view you.
Remember your goal is to appear competent and to appear a leader.
Traditional Business Clothes First, let's plan wardrobes for people
in white-collar positions in a company with traditional dress. The first
thing to do is see how the successful people a level or two above you
dress. You should know enough after this program to identify the ones
who are not dressing as well as they should. How the others dress may
be a better guide than what you read here. You'll have to be the judge.
Suits and Jackets. Spend the money to get 100% wool suits and jackets.
Shop the most expensive stores to develop an eye for what expensive
looks like. Then, buy the best you can afford. Male or female, you will
want to start with a medium or dark gray suit and a navy-blue blazer
or sport coat. You will want tan and/or gray slacks or skirts to wear
with the blazer. A woman can probably buy a navy-blue suit with a jacket
that serves as a blazer. The woman's gray suit jacket may also be able
to double as a sport coat. While this may not seem fair, remember that
women are expected to have many more outfits than men.
Menswear. Men should buy cotton shirts remembering that there is no
such thing as a short-sleeved dress shirt. Decisions about smooth or
oxford cloth shirts will vary by company as will cufflinks or buttons.
I won't attempt to give out tie advice that will remain timely. Just
remember what you've learned about color and don't buy anything ridiculous.
Beyond the two basic purchases, men will want to add a gray suit of
another shade, perhaps a gray sport coat. A dark blue suit and perhaps
a medium blue suit would fill out the basic wardrobe. Your belt should
always match your shoes. Suspenders are fine in some offices and thought
odd in others.
Womenswear. Women will want to add a burgundy or dark green suit. When
you chose a feminine cut suit you give up a lot of power and authority,
so you want to be sure to have a number of traditionally cut suits and
jackets. Besides a non-traditional cut, feminine suits are also those
with trim and those made from material that would never be used for
a man's suit. Many are appropriate, just not very powerful.
Never wear a pastel suit or jacket. My rule of thumb is, "If it would
look good for church, it is not businesslike enough." Women can also
wear dresses, but they should be very structured and made from fabric
that could be used for a suit. The dress, as you can imagine, is another
step down in authority. Avoid solid black dresses that could be worn
on a date.
How about slacks? Seems they are finally acceptable in most businesses,
but I still think they can hold you back in a traditionally dressing
company. Keep that jacket on and make it a long one.
The best fabrics for women's blouses are cotton and silk. I personally
like rayon. You have great leeway with color and design, however, nothing
sheer and no low necklines.
Do not get too flamboyant with scarves. Tied to the neck or tucked
in the neckline are reasonable. You want to look like you are working,
not like you are all dressed up to go to a luncheon with the ladies.
CASUAL DRESS
In the casual dressing workplace, the short, the slight, and the stout
lose power. Wear a sport coat whenever you can. It's the great equalizer
and camouflager. Always have one handy to put on when a client or manager
visits. Women can add a structured vest to a casual outfit and raise
their level of authority.
The tact to take with truly casual workplaces is to wear conservative,
expensive clothing that is impeccably maintained. Sticking to traditional
business colors while others parade around in purple and orange is a
subtle way to dress casual but look more professional.
If your midriff has rolls or if you're a woman with ample breasts,
stay away from the increasingly popular knit shirts. Stick to woven
fabrics. While too much of a pattern can look unprofessional, preppy-looking
plaid and vertically striped shirts are usually fine for a casual workplace
and can camouflage your shape. If you have a well developed belly, check
your body profile in the mirror. My preference is that your stomach
not hang over your belt, but it's hard to generalize as physiques vary
so much.
Shoes
The rule for shoes is also, "Be very conservative." Black, cordovan,
and brown are all acceptable in most venues. If you wear warm colors
best, you will probably want to have a pair of brown shoes. Otherwise,
black and cordovan may be enough. Women can wear navy shoes, but don't
stray too far into "church" and "luncheon" shoe colors. Keep your shoes
in perfect condition - regularly polished and repaired before they really
need it. Men should look at what the successful men in the company wear.
Men who wear expensive shoes notice the shoes of other men. Men's shoes
are understated enough that your wearing what the company executives
wear should not affect how you fit with your team. Your socks should
be dark and long enough that your leg never shows.
Women do not need to buy expensive shoes. There are so many brands
of women's shoes that it is impossible to tell. The most expensive are
often inappropriate. The important thing about women's shoes is that
they are closed at the heel and the toe. A 1 to 2 inch heel is appropriate.
Flat shoes do not seem grown-up enough with traditional business dress
except with slacks. It's hard to make a rule for casual dress. Stick
with leather pumps, loafers, lightweight lace-ups - until you're the
last one.
Beyond Casual
There are positions, such as engineering, where you sometimes need
to dress to be taken seriously by the workers in the field. These would
typically be men who do not report to you but to whom you give directions.
If you are younger or female, you may feel the need to prove that you
are not a sissy office type. This may require jeans and work boots.
Two sets of clothes could be the solution or that may make you seem
overly concerned about your appearance. It's the kind of work situation
where you need to be there to be able to say. Often, engineering managers
came through the same route and respect someone who knows what it takes
to work with the technicians.
Conclusion
Remember our goal is that other people view you as competent and a
leader. Things do change. Be conservative. Buy traditional styles. They
last and even if they fade for a while, they always come back.
From the CORPORATE CLIMBING NEWSLETTER
Parrish Nelson Hirasaki, Speaker and Columnist A woman who has been
successful as an Engineer, an Executive, and an Entrepreneur. She can
be reached at:
Nelson Communications
931 Shady Oak Drive
Dickinson, Texas 77539-3322
Voice 281-337-2808
Fax 281-337-6121
PH@ParrishH.com www.ParrishH.com
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